Nestled in the verdant hills of central Sri Lanka, Kandy stands as a testament to the island nation’s rich cultural heritage and natural beauty. This enchanting city, perched at an elevation of approximately 500 meters above sea level, offers visitors a captivating blend of ancient traditions, colonial architecture, and breathtaking landscapes. As the last capital of the ancient kings of Sri Lanka before the country fell under British rule in 1815, Kandy holds a special place in the hearts of Sri Lankans and continues to draw travelers from around the world seeking to experience authentic Sri Lankan culture.
A Journey Through History
The history of Kandy is as layered and complex as the misty mountains that surround it. Originally known as Senkadagalapura, the city became the capital of the Sinhalese kingdom in the late 15th century, when King Sena Sammatha Wickramabahu established his court there. The choice of location was strategic; the city’s natural defenses, including steep hills and dense forests, made it nearly impregnable to foreign invaders. This geographical advantage allowed the Kandyan Kingdom to maintain its independence even as Portuguese and Dutch colonial powers conquered the coastal regions of Sri Lanka. Kandy Sri Lanka’s Cultural Heart in the Highlands.
For nearly three centuries, Kandy served as the epicenter of Sinhalese culture and Buddhism, preserving traditions that might otherwise have been lost to colonial influence. The kingdom’s rulers were not merely political leaders but also guardians of Buddhist heritage, a role that shaped the city’s identity profoundly. It wasn’t until 1815 that the British finally managed to capture Kandy, ending over 2,000 years of Sri Lankan monarchical rule. However, rather than destroying the city’s cultural significance, the British period added another layer to Kandy’s architectural and historical tapestry.
The Sacred Temple of the Tooth
No discussion of Kandy would be complete without highlighting the Sri Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. This magnificent temple complex, located within the royal palace compound, houses what is believed to be a tooth of the Buddha himself. According to legend, the tooth was retrieved from the Buddha’s funeral pyre in 483 BCE and smuggled to Sri Lanka hidden in the hair of Princess Hemamali during the 4th century CE. The relic has since become the most venerated object in Sri Lankan Buddhism and a symbol of sovereignty.
The temple’s architecture is a masterpiece of Kandyan craftsmanship, featuring ornate carvings, golden roofs, and intricate paintings that depict scenes from Buddhist mythology. Visitors enter through beautifully decorated doorways into chambers adorned with ivory, gold, and precious stones. The tooth relic itself is housed in seven golden caskets, shaped like stupas and nested within each other, though it is rarely displayed to the public. The temple complex also includes several smaller shrines, museums displaying royal regalia and Buddhist artifacts, and the Audience Hall, where the last king of Kandy held court.
Three times daily, during morning, noon, and evening pujas (worship ceremonies), the chamber containing the relic is opened for devotees and visitors. The sound of traditional drums and the scent of incense fill the air as pilgrims dressed in white offer flowers and prayers. Witnessing these ceremonies provides an intimate glimpse into living Buddhist tradition and the deep faith that continues to define Sri Lankan culture.
The Esala Perahera: A Festival of Lights and Devotion
Every year, usually in July or August, Kandy transforms into a stage for one of Asia’s most spectacular cultural events: the Esala Perahera. This ten-day festival honors the Sacred Tooth Relic with a series of increasingly elaborate processions that culminate in a grand finale featuring decorated elephants, traditional dancers, drummers, and thousands of performers.
The festival has its roots in ancient times, combining both Buddhist and Hindu traditions. Each night, the procession grows more magnificent, with scores of elephants draped in elaborate costumes, their tusks adorned with silver and gold. The Maligawa Tusker, the most senior elephant, carries a golden casket containing a replica of the tooth relic. Fire-breathers, whip-crackers, and acrobats accompany the procession, while traditional Kandyan dancers in elaborate costumes perform complex routines to the rhythm of thundering drums.
Attending the Esala Perahera is an unforgettable experience that showcases the living traditions of Sri Lankan culture. The streets overflow with locals and tourists alike, all mesmerized by the spectacle of light, sound, and devotion. For those planning to visit during this period, booking accommodations well in advance is essential, as the city fills to capacity with pilgrims and tourists from around the world.
Kandy Lake: The City’s Tranquil Heart
At the center of Kandy lies the serene Kandy Lake, an artificial body of water created in 1807 by the last Sinhalese king, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. Local legend holds that the king built the lake despite opposition from his courtiers, who protested the destruction of rice paddies. Today, the lake serves as the city’s peaceful heart, offering a welcome respite from urban bustle and providing a picturesque setting for the Temple of the Tooth, which sits majestically on its northern shore.
A leisurely walk around the lake’s 3.4-kilometer perimeter is one of Kandy’s most pleasant activities. The pathway is lined with trees that provide shade during the day and create romantic ambiance at night when streetlamps reflect off the water’s surface. Visitors often spot water monitors basking on the banks, various species of birds, and schools of fish swimming in the lake’s depths. The lake also features a small island in its center, which once served as a private bathing area for the king’s harem.
The lake’s surroundings offer numerous vantage points for photography, particularly during sunrise and sunset when the changing light creates stunning reflections. Benches positioned along the pathway invite visitors to pause and absorb the tranquil atmosphere, making the lake walk an essential part of any Kandy itinerary.
Colonial Architecture and the Royal Botanical Gardens
While Kandy is primarily known for its Sinhalese heritage, the colonial period left an indelible mark on the city’s architecture. Buildings constructed during British rule, including churches, government offices, and colonial mansions, stand alongside traditional Kandyan structures, creating an interesting architectural dialogue between East and West. The Queen’s Hotel, built in 1844, remains one of the finest examples of colonial architecture and continues to operate as a hotel where visitors can enjoy afternoon tea while imagining life during the British Raj.
Just outside Kandy, approximately six kilometers from the city center, lies the Royal Botanical Gardens of Peradeniya. Originally created as a pleasure garden for Kandyan royalty, the gardens were expanded under British rule and now encompass 147 acres of meticulously maintained landscapes. The gardens are home to over 4,000 species of plants, including an impressive collection of orchids, palms, and medicinal plants. One of the most popular attractions is the Giant Bamboo of Burma, which can grow up to 40 meters in height.
The gardens’ avenue of royal palms, planted in 1905, creates a stunning natural corridor, while the suspension bridge offers picturesque views over the Mahaweli River. History enthusiasts appreciate the garden’s colonial-era structures and the trees planted by distinguished visitors, including King George V, Tsar Nicholas II, and Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. The botanical gardens provide a perfect half-day excursion and offer insight into Sri Lanka’s remarkable biodiversity.
Kandyan Cultural Shows and Traditional Arts
Understanding Kandy means engaging with its living traditions, and several venues in the city offer cultural shows that showcase traditional Kandyan dance and music. These performances typically feature several dance styles, including the Kandyan dance (considered the national dance of Sri Lanka), low-country dance, and Sabaragamuwa dance. Dancers wear elaborate costumes with silver ornaments and headdresses, performing acrobatic movements to the accompaniment of traditional drums.
The highlight of most shows is the fire-walking ceremony, where performers demonstrate their skills by walking across hot coals. While some might view these shows as touristic, they serve an important function in preserving and transmitting traditional arts to new generations. Young performers train for years to master these complex dance forms, and the shows provide them with both income and a platform to showcase their skills.
Beyond organized performances, Kandy is home to numerous artisans who practice traditional crafts passed down through generations. Visitors can observe craftspeople creating brass items, jewelry, woodcarvings, and lacquerware. The city’s markets also offer handwoven textiles, batik, and other handicrafts, providing opportunities to purchase authentic souvenirs while supporting local artisans.
Natural Beauty and Surrounding Attractions
Kandy’s location in the Central Highlands makes it an ideal base for exploring Sri Lanka’s spectacular hill country. The surrounding landscape features tea plantations, waterfalls, nature reserves, and hiking trails that appeal to outdoor enthusiasts. The Knuckles Mountain Range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lies within easy reach and offers trekking opportunities through pristine cloud forests with stunning panoramic views.
Tea lovers should not miss the opportunity to visit nearby tea estates and factories where Ceylon tea is produced. Tours typically include walks through manicured tea fields, explanations of the tea-making process, and tastings of different varieties. The sight of tea pluckers with baskets balanced on their backs, selectively harvesting leaves on misty hillsides, is quintessentially Sri Lankan.
Several beautiful waterfalls are accessible from Kandy, including Ramboda Falls and Devon Falls, both offering refreshing breaks from sightseeing. The Udawattakele Forest Reserve, located just behind the Temple of the Tooth, provides a green sanctuary within the city itself. This 104-hectare forest was once a forbidden area reserved for royalty but is now open to visitors who can hike through dense vegetation while spotting various bird species, monkeys, and other wildlife.
Practical Considerations for Visitors
Kandy’s climate is considerably cooler than the coastal areas, with temperatures typically ranging from 18 to 28 degrees Celsius. Visitors should bring light layers, particularly for early mornings and evenings. The city experiences rainfall throughout the year, though the heaviest rains occur during the southwest monsoon (May to August) and northeast monsoon (October to January). Despite the rain, Kandy remains accessible and attractive year-round.
When visiting religious sites, particularly the Temple of the Tooth, appropriate dress is required. This means covering shoulders and legs; sarongs are often available for rent or loan at temple entrances. Shoes must be removed before entering temple buildings, so wearing easily removable footwear is advisable. Photography is permitted in most areas, though there may be restrictions in certain sacred spaces.
Kandy is well-connected to other parts of Sri Lanka by road and rail. The train journey from Colombo to Kandy is particularly scenic, winding through countryside, tea plantations, and mountain tunnels. Many travelers consider this one of the most beautiful train rides in the world and recommend it as a memorable way to reach the city.
Conclusion
Kandy represents the soul of Sri Lanka, a place where ancient traditions continue to thrive amid the rhythms of modern life. Whether you’re drawn by the sacred significance of the Temple of the Tooth, the artistic heritage preserved in traditional dance, the natural beauty of the surrounding highlands, or simply the warm hospitality of its people, Kandy offers experiences that resonate long after visitors depart. The city invites not just observation but participation, encouraging travelers to engage with its living culture, walk its historic streets, and absorb the spiritual atmosphere that has defined this remarkable place for centuries. In Kandy, the past is not merely preserved in museums but walks alongside the present, creating a uniquely authentic destination that captures the essence of Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage.